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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. But, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” states the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary honour.